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本日も海外サイトより、”FISHING THE DAMIKI RIG IN WINTER”という記事を引用してご紹介いたします!

引用先:flwfishing.com”FISHING THE DAMIKI RIG IN WINTER”February 8, 2017 by Curtis Niedermier(海外サイトです)








Photo by flwfishing.com

The Damiki rig is primarily a wintertime bait, though according to Snavely it has some applications earlier in the season, beginning at about the autumnal equinox in late September. From then until November on the mountain lakes near his Johnson City, Tenn., home, Snavely finds bass grouped together in larger schools than in wintertime. They also relate more to the bottom rather than being suspended. So Snavely targets flats, humps and points and tends to fish the rig with a bit more action.

Later in the year, when the rig really shines, he’s primarily dead-sticking for suspended bass or bass keyed on suspended bait in water deeper than 30 feet. Shallower than that, the fish can be spooked by the boat overhead.

Water temperature is also important for the winter bite.

“Anything 50 degrees or below is good, but 46 to 48 degrees is best,” Snavely says. “You’re mimicking sluggish shad that start to die off when it’s cold. Target any bank, channel, channel swing, ditch or flat where there’s bait.”

Unlike in summer, when offshore bass tend to relate to a defined edge, winter smallmouths can be just about anywhere as long as food is nearby. Shad, alewives and other baitfishes will filter in and out of the main lake and large creeks through ditches, down the center of the creeks or along steep-sloping banks.

That’s why it’s essential to focus on finding bait, versus spending hours searching for schools of bass along distinct contours. Besides, sometimes bass “blend in” with schools of bait on the depth finder and are tough to spot anyway, or they’re so tight to bottom – waiting on bait to drift by overhead – that they’re not visible on the graph.

“A lot of times you just idle around, and you only have to see one fish because they’re so tight to bottom [that you don’t see the rest],” Snavely adds. “It’s not like the summertime where you want to see a bunch of fish schooled up.”

If you mark a fish or two, or if you locate a wad of bait, stop and drop the trolling motor. Snavely says he finds more fish once he shuts off the big motor and is on the front deck, with the bait dropped down.

Finally, weather is a major factor in winter. The fish respond to fronts as they do at any time of year, but strong winds make it tough to stay directly above them, and the resulting waves crashing on banks can set up other patterns that are easier to fish, such as casting a swimbait or crankbait along steep, windblown banks and points.

Cold days and extended periods with low temperatures are usually better than mild days, and sunshine will cause bass to suspend more often, making them more susceptible to the Damiki rig. When they’re suspended, Snavely has found that the fish can be patterned by depth range, so once you find a few, check similar areas elsewhere on the lake.




「10℃以下なら良いのですが、7.7℃から8.8℃が最適です」とスナヴェリー氏は言います。 「寒くなって次々に死んでいくシャッドを模倣するのです。バンク、チャンネル、チャンネルが曲がるところ、溝、またはベイトが多い場所をターゲットにしてください。」



「多くの時間を無駄に過ごしてしまい、そして、ようやく一本の魚を見つける状況です。[ボトムにべったりの魚は見つけづらいだけですが]」スナヴェリーはつけ加えます。 「たくさんの魚のスクールが見える夏のようにはいかないのです」






Fishing the Damiki rig is a bit of a departure from traditional vertical presentations. Unlike a spoon, which is usually jigged and ripped aggressively, or a drop-shot, which is shaken in place, the Damiki rig works best with a dead-sticking presentation.

Snavely often uses it in conjunction with a 2.8-inch Keitech swimbait rigged on a 1/4-ounce jighead. Sometimes the fish show a preference for one or the other. But when they’re on the Damiki rig, that’s when he knows a big bag is possible.

“You definitely get bigger bites on it than the Keitech. I don’t know why,” he says. “But sometimes if they don’t bite you can back off and cast the Keitech and get them to bite.”

To fish the Damiki rig, Snavely starts by setting the frequency on his bow-mounted Lowrance HDS unit to the 200 kHz frequency, and he shuts off his rear graph to eliminate interference. If he has a co-angler on board who’s using the rear graph, he sets the front graph to the medium CHIRP sonar setting.

He works into the wind for control, and eases along at a modest speed, stopping above fish whenever they show up on the graph or just dangling the rig in areas where he believes fish to be.

“Don’t get into a hurry on the trolling motor,” Snavely adds. “If you get in a hurry you’ve gone past them.”




ダミキリグで釣るために、スナヴェリーは、バウ側の Lowrance HDSユニットの周波数を200kHzの周波数に設定することから始め、干渉を避けるためにリアの魚探をオフにします。リアの魚探を使用したい同船者がいる場合、フロント魚探を中程度のCHIRPソナー設定にします。




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Tempting a bass to bite is a cat-and-mouse game. If Snavely sees a fish on his graph, he drops his bait down and stops it a few feet overhead. If he knows fish are in the area, but can’t see them on the graph, he drops his bait down to within 5 or 10 feet of the bottom. Even though these fish might be hugging the rocks, they’re aggressive enough to swim up a long distance to eat an easy meal. Other times, a fish will come into view above his bait, and he has to readjust quickly.

“If you see one up at, say, 17 feet, reel up past it and stop, and usually it will eat it,” he says.

Regardless of where and how a fish shows up, he keeps the rig above the bass and doesn’t give it any action; in fact, he holds it still. Usually if the fish is willing to swim up toward the bait, it’s going to bite. If it doesn’t, Snavely has a few tricks.

“If one stalls, raise up,” he says. “The farther you can get one to come up, the more likely it is to commit.

“A lot of times what gets them fired up is when you reel up really quick and then drop it back down,” he adds.




「うまくいかなかったら、持ち上げてみてください」と彼は言います。 「遠く離したほうが上手くいく場合もあります。多くの場合、彼らのスイッチが入るのは、本当に素早く巻き上げて、また元に戻すときです」と彼は付け加えます。

Mastering this cat-and-mouse game is the most challenging part of the technique, but it’s also an exciting way to fish. Pay particularly close attention to the bottom band on the depth finder. Sometimes a bass will rise up just far enough off bottom to create a noticeable sonar return that blends in slightly with the bottom. If you see a sudden change in color or thickness of the band, it might be a fish.

Also, if a bass shows up, but quickly disappears, sometimes you can relocate it by turning the trolling motor head. The resulting transducer angle change can bring the bass back into the sonar cone.

The key to the technique is to read the fish and respond to their cues – and to be willing to venture out in cold water and look for fish in the first place. Once you find them, the Damiki rig is an effective tool to pluck them from the depths, and you might be rewarded with some of the biggest bass of the season.